Chalkless Test Monkey is currently the left-most of five routes as you face the crag. It starts under two large bulges near the middle of the wall.
Climb difficult, bouldery start over two bulges to a large sloping ledge. Continue up friction slab above, following shallow seam, then trending right to anchors.
bouldery fun start but after slopey ledge a fair amount of rock was flaking off on the friction moves. secure those feet if you don't wanna get scraped up!
I think I climbed this route right after you guys put it up. Back then it was still a slightly crumbly but I am sure it has cleaned up really nicely by now.. I loved the bouldery start and the slab was fun. I walked over there and saw a bolted route that wasn't in my guidebook..I did it ...i liked it...and if i'm there again I'll do it again.
By Forest Hill From: Tucson, AZ Jul 17, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Unfortunately, the Willow Canyon area has been closed since just a few months after we finished putting this up, so it's likely in nearly the same condition it was in back then.
FWIW, I was pleasantly suprised at how fun this route turned out to be.
It's made even better since there's not a whole lot of good 5.9-ish slab climbing on Mt Lemmon (granted, I haven't been up to friction rock yet, so I'm not including that.) The only other one that comes to mind is Chiboni, which I'd have to say is certainly better than CTM
By Forest Hill From: Tucson, AZ Jul 17, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Also note that the anchor bolts on this climb are not stainless steel. They're so new, that this is fine for at least another 3 - 5 years, but as soon as I'm able to head out there, I'd like to replace them with some stainless bolts. All the other bolts are stainless 3.5" x 3.8" rawl 5-piece
Rose Hill Crag
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