Two for a Peso 

I did the 10/11th ascent of the original route (w/ Gordon Ogden circa 1989) when the route required "3 sets of brass nuts".

Mike Head drilled the route adding chains at 80' (route is 110') and few finish now. In my mind, this route is dead.

Also, unless something broke the grade was 5.10(b).

pg 115 Steiger's 1985 guide. Remember the past folks............

I was probably in the 4th or 5th ascent with Paul Davidson and it was a really hard scary route. Lead it before the retro bolting and scared the crap out of myself as well. Did it yesterday and really had fun clipping all those bolts. Pretty sure RR gave the OK to retro bolt it as those two climbed together and still do. I agree with Rickd that we should not forget the past. I enjoyed thinking about how bold the lead was before the bolts and hope that everyone that does it appreciates what Ray did on the FA so many years ago.