Follow the great hands to finger crack to a small roof. There are good jams to be found the whole way, but the only true crack moves are the fingerlocks leading to the roof. Great pro the entire way. Pull the roof (don't fall here), clip a bolt and continue to the anchors. This is a must do for Mt. Lemmon. This climb would be a classic almost anywhere.
Location
Prominent crack right of Swept Away if you are looking up at the face. You can't miss it.
Protection
Hand and finger sized cams. A few finger sized nuts will serve you well too. Slings to equalize the very offset anchors at the top of the first pitch.
pitch 2 has some good moves above the belay to a required placement of 'nuts in opposition' for gear. Easier gradewise than the first (roof) but keeps the leader on his/her toes.
By scott e. tarrant From: redstone, co Jul 9, 2008 rating: 5.10c PG13
purely and simply one of the best climbs of my life.