Follow the great hands to finger crack to a small roof. There are good jams to be found the whole way, but the only true crack moves are the fingerlocks leading to the roof. Great pro the entire way. Pull the roof (don't fall here), clip a bolt and continue to the anchors. This is a must do for Mt. Lemmon. This climb would be a classic almost anywhere.
Location
Prominent crack right of Swept Away if you are looking up at the face. You can't miss it.
Protection
Hand and finger sized cams. A few finger sized nuts will serve you well too. Slings to equalize the very offset anchors at the top of the first pitch.
pitch 2 has some good moves above the belay to a required placement of 'nuts in opposition' for gear. Easier gradewise than the first (roof) but keeps the leader on his/her toes.
By scott e. tarrant From: denver, co Jul 9, 2008 rating: 5.10c PG13
purely and simply one of the best climbs of my life.
One of the nicest cracks on Lemmon. Great location too. Do most people turn the roof on p1 to the right of the big jug? Thats what I did, but I saw a small fixed nut to the left where the crack turns into a seam.
I think I stay a bit right turning the roof too but it has been a while since I was there. Did you do Warm & Free up to Rapture. If not, do it next time it makes for a lot of good climbing.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ May 19, 2009 rating: 5.10 PG13
ditto eric - and also ditto eric on doing warm and free first.
I saw the "nuts in opposition" placement on P2. It is not really required as I could place a micro cam and a #3 camalot in nearly the same spot. Maybe the nuts would work better, I dunno. That old rusted bolt ought to be replaced at some point. P2 is worth doing to avoid the scramble back up the gulley.
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