The Other Way 

FA:  Jake Bender, Dave Baker '71 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.7 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 110 feet Season:  spring seasonal closures Views: 46 page views Submitted By: rickd on Jul 19, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>> This area is closed March 15 - June 30 for nesting pregerine falcons. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Just right of Rotissma Bueno are a series of short cracks leading up the lip of the Rotissma corner. Tricky gear protection and sporty tied off chickenheads. Essentially 3 exits. The right (more or less direct) involves insecure move 4' above a modest tied off chickenhead. The center, a mantle up over a hollow chickenhead. Left, connecting into Charadras' steep exit (and mucho rope drag). Expect climbing above gear several feet on three occasions. NOT for a novice leader. I have a hard time giving this a star- and only for the direct (right) exit. The other two exits are "bomb" class.

Location 

Just right of Rotissima Bueno, 40' left of Black Quacker

Protection 

stoppers and TCU's. 9/16" shoulder slings AND the technique to secure them are essential.