BETA PHOTO: From this view, the Pharaoh on the right obscures ...
Description
A stout climb with fantastic exposure. Nice mix of face and crack climbing with some wide surprises. On pitch one, move up and right to a steep face into a corner/flaring chimney. Sketchy! Pitch two follows a direct line up a crack/corner system. Pitch three continues up a crack before traversing left under a roof to a steep slabby finish.
Location
Look for two or three small roofs down low. Above you will see a left facing corner/slot. The route starts left of the small roofs. There are fixed anchors at the top of the first and second pitches. Gear anchor necessary for the last pitch. To descend, pass through a small notch near the summit to the west side. Drop into a large dish with rappel anchors just below a small tree. Rappel down (over) a gulley. Be careful not to fall into the slot.
Protection
Bring your standard rack. At least on fist size piece will be useful
Rhicard and I jumped on your new thing at Prison Camp. Fun route, a bit crimpy for my taste but worth the effort to get. Very sequencey. I need to redpoint Sentenced to Hang (which is taking me a few more runs than I thought) then I'll sacrifice the tips for your route. I like that wall!! By the way we bolted Crime and Punishment, so there's another good sport warmup for the hard stuff.
Make sure to get some pro in on the easy leftward traverse at the end of the third pitch because there is one last tricky upwards move to get to the belay..Probably the random guano around there doesn't help either..
I'm not sure if that last move was the cause of the Alex Pendleton accident (see climbaz.com) but I thought I'd put this out there anyway..
By James DeRoussel Administrator From: Tucson, AZ Apr 6, 2008
As mentioned above, this climb was host to a leader fatality in recent years. Ought not to be taken lightly at the grade.
Pharaoh
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