I started this route from the footpath some 50 feet directly below the crack, on 5.7 face holds. The line then went up to the "twin toy roof" complex where a bolt protects this scrambling sequence that leads to the crack itself. The second bolt, two feet to the right of the crack allows the climber to safely initiate lay-back or jamming moves after which large pieces may be used. I had trouble finding secure placements once on the crack itself. A large hex was my best pro, number 10, and I did not like it. But, for a well practiced 5.9 leader, the lay back is not overly demanding. A number 4 friend also added to my illusion of security on this 15 foot section. Above the crack, the subsidiary cracks really sucked up the pro, medium stoppers and Lowe tricams. The climb finishes straight up the headwall on 5.7 stuff and ends about six feet west of the top anchors.
Location
This climb starts about 100 feet west of the OMSF formation on the Hollin Wall. It is listed on page 51 of Squeezing the Lemmon II as route #9. There is a 5.10b R face variation left (west) of the main crack, but the "normative" route stays with the crack and should give climbers a solid 5.9 experience.
Protection
Small to medium-sized stoppers; lowe tricams .5, 1.0, 1.5; 10 quickdraw sets; large friends, 2.5 to 4.0; # 10 and 11 hexes; 1 four foot runner. Two bolts now cover the crux 5.9 sequence of this climb, one at the "twin-roof bulge," the other protects the initial lay-back mount of the crack above.
Old Man Stone Face and Hollin Walls
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