The Black Stain 

FA:  Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 7580 feet Views: 141 page views Submitted By: Desicon on Jan 28, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route was initially led as a solo back in 1990, subsequently bolted 10/4/93 and re-done by Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver.

To find this route, start counting #1 from the first line with chains at the top, Tom's Cruise, go east to the third route (fifth named route) and this is The Black Stain. The route starts with a pull up into a "port-hole" gouge in the rock, then follow the black mineral stain up to the top where two roof/bulges are encountered. Discontinuous cracks lead up and right to the finish. Crux moves are at bulges.

LOl, I see that this single pitch has mistakenly been assigned a 7000 foot + length, don't believe it, 75 tops!

Protection 

I used small to medium wired stoppers, and two Lowe tricams (.5 pink, and 1.0), and eight quick draw sets. There are three bolts on this climb as I recall it, maybe only two? I have not been out there for a while. Chains at the top can be used to rappel back down to the cliff foot, and they also serve for top-roping the climbs to either side of The Black Stain

The last time I led this route, 1998 (?) I thought it was more like a solid 5.9 than a 5.9+?