This is a cool climb and definitely worth doing at least once. If you enjoy wide stuff, this climb is for you.
P1 Starts with a flaring chimney/slot. The climb becomes more sporty with a technical crux in the middle. Then finish up a tight chimney with a hollow flake.
P2 Follow the roof out right. Make some some solid stemming moves up a very short corner. Then make a sporty exit right. IF you want to keep the grade at 5.8, you can finish left.
Location
Approach as for Steve's Arete. Once past Steve's Arete, continue to drop down the hillside, bearing left at each drop off. There is no formal trail. Facing down hill, we dropped down the left flank of Nurd Rock. If only doing Great Expectations, I would leave your packs at the summit, and continue down with light approach shoes.
Caution. The soil is very loose and it is easy to dislodge large rocks.
Protection
Bring a full rack from fingers to fist/offwidth. Build a gear anchor on a stance about 10 feet below the roof. There are two bolts at the summit.
FA: Steve Grossman, Rich Thompson, 1976 10- Finish: Charlie Rollins, Josh Tofield, Tom Bingham 1979
1st pitch is about old school 5.8
10a is for the second pitch going up through the corner to the right of the gear belay. There's an old pin not far from the belay.
Exiting left has maybe one exposed 5.4-5.6 move and then it's fourth class
Then the 5.8 third option for the second pitch is to traverse to the last bolt on "Desire" and then head right from there.
If you wanted to sew it up you could bring an extra #3 and #4 and maybe even a #5, but that might hinder your maneuverability as far as switching sides in the chimney.
The rock is not that sharp but pads could be helpful. Tape is definitely helpful.
Nurd Rock
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