This is a long line that starts off on relatively low angle face with some thin holds and then gets progressively steeper. You might want to stick clip the first bolt or at least use a spotter. The tower on top is fairly steep but has big holds. The route is a challenge mentally with long run out sections and puzzling moves. Nang is a must do climb for sure.
Location
Technically this route is on Blazing Fin. Walk around the south side of North Fin, past past Slippery When Wet, and then go north into the small gulley that separates North and Blazing fins. It is the second bolted route on the left and it goes all the way to the top of the tower.
Protection
A lot of quickdraws. A few nuts are optional. There is a two bolt anchor on top of the tower.
The walk off to the east is pretty casual, as I recall
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Jan 25, 2009 rating: 5.10b
I guess they added bolts to the start of "My Mother the Rock". We ended up going up that thinking it was "Nang", but thankfully my partner had plenty of gear, because it's a good 30 feet of sustained face climbing from the third bolt to the fourth bolt under the chimney. Then he trended left and joined up with "Nang". This variation is a great climb in its own right.
If you want to do "Nang", make sure you get on the second bolt line from climber's right. That's definitely the only one of those two lines that fits the "gear-optional" description.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Jan 25, 2009 rating: 5.10b
On the walk-off there's just one step-across move over a 3-4 foot gap that requires a little attention but is easier than it first looks, then the rest is casual. Once on the other side, you stay towards the outside and end up over by the anchors for Agatha Christie on the North Fin (for those who want to leave packs at top).
The extra bolts right of Nang are my fault. They were the result of a mixup as to where "my mother the rock" really goes. It's not where the book says it is, but after it was all said and done, Todd Bibler said I should leave the bolts, so I did. FWIW, I think it ended up a really fun (now mixed) route (there are four bolts over the course of 150 ft.)
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Jan 26, 2009 rating: 5.10b
Didn't bother me, it's a pretty cool variation actually. I haven't led it yet, but from following seemed like really cool 9+/10a moves over good gear, then you can finish on Nang on the tower by extending the 4th bolt under the chimney and the first bolt on Nang itself.
Seems like the R rating on "Mother" would be from trying to protect the really thin seams at the bottom, wherever they may be (near your bolt line or further to the climber's right).
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