Tricky start could result in a bad fall. Probably smart to throw in one or two pieces before leaving the ground. You'll get a couple of nice hand jams before the route's over.
Location
First route you come to and most obvious crack, when walking down to Nancy's Thumb/North Fin.
Protection
I was able to justify my purchase of an expensive Black Diamond C3 at the start of the route (size 00 I think). The rest of the route used BD #.75,#1,#2, and #3.
This route is only worth doing if you have done everything else on the mountain. A number of ankles have been sprained or broken on this pile. If you really want to climb a crack do the Old Man, Slippery When Wet, Histoplasmosis, or head to Chimney Rock, The Reef, anywhere but Nancy's Crack.
I tried this early last year and just couldn't commit to the initial move with just a straight-in blue Alien size placement, don't remember seeing any other obvious placements to double it up, but I just had few months of trad-climbing experience at that point..
Seeing Eric's comment it was probably a good move..
Soloing the short 5.4 on the back to TR it wasn't bad at all..I would just watch it if you have single-strap style rope bag, it tends to start swinging around..might be better to just coil the rope and tie it to your back..
This route is not very fun, EFR is absolutely right with his other route suggestions. If you get bored or have done these, there are a couple fun moves on this route. The pro is crap for a good part of the route, there are a couple good pieces near the end but ankle busting is a possibility.
By James DeRoussel Administrator From: Tucson, AZ Jun 28, 2008
This may a be a good one to top rope, which can be done by climbing up the west side of Nancy's Thumb via Ben There Dun That (5.7) or the Regular Route (5.4). If you are looking for a crack to lead, Old Man is a much better choice, right around the corner.
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