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Nancy's Crack 

5.9 PG13

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 329 page views

Submitted By: Steve Pulver on May 23, 2006


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Description 

Tricky start could result in a bad fall. Probably smart to throw in one or two pieces before leaving the ground. You'll get a couple of nice hand jams before the route's over.


Location 

First route you come to and most obvious crack, when walking down to Nancy's Thumb/North Fin.


Protection 

I was able to justify my purchase of an expensive Black Diamond C3 at the start of the route (size 00 I think). The rest of the route used BD #.75,#1,#2, and #3.



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By Eric Rhicard
May 23, 2006

This route is only worth doing if you have done everything else on the mountain. A number of ankles have been sprained or broken on this pile. If you really want to climb a crack do the Old Man, Slippery When Wet, Histoplasmosis, or head to Chimney Rock, The Reef, anywhere but Nancy's Crack.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Jan 26, 2007

I tried this early last year and just couldn't commit to the initial move with just a straight-in blue Alien size placement, don't remember seeing any other obvious placements to double it up, but I just had few months of trad-climbing experience at that point..

Seeing Eric's comment it was probably a good move..

Soloing the short 5.4 on the back to TR it wasn't bad at all..I would just watch it if you have single-strap style rope bag, it tends to start swinging around..might be better to just coil the rope and tie it to your back..

By Jeremiah Johnson
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.9 PG13

Don't believe the negative hype; a very good route if you're into shorter, tricker climbs. Don't blow the start.

By joshf
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2007

This route is not very fun, EFR is absolutely right with his other route suggestions. If you get bored or have done these, there are a couple fun moves on this route. The pro is crap for a good part of the route, there are a couple good pieces near the end but ankle busting is a possibility.