This route is sustained. Very fun edge climbing with some interesting movement. Holds tax your fingertips a little but well worth climbing.
Location
Walking down the gully into North Fin you will pass "Air Monsters", and three anchors before you see a large fin protrusion. "5 O'clock Shadow climb the face left of this and goes over it near the top.
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ Mar 18, 2007 rating: 5.10+
The nuts on the chain anchors of this climb were very loose when we were there today. As in, at-the-end-of-the-bolt loose. Five-full-turns-to-tighten loose. No one around had a wrench so they are only hand tight. Which leads to a question: what size wrench do standard bolts and anchors use, so I can start carrying one in my pack?
A pretty good wrench is a 9/16 : 1/2 inch offset box wrench. The 9/16 end will fit most bolts used on Lemmon. You can tie some webbing through the 1/2 inch side so that the wrench can be clipped to your harness. The offset will keep your knuckles from getting scratched up too much. I use a Craftsman 44317.
A tube of loctite is good too. The red loctite is good but seems to dry out in the tube faster than the blue. Don't put all your muscle into tightening. Good and snug with some loctite is good enough. Over-torqueing is bad.
By joshf From: Tucson, AZ Oct 25, 2007 rating: 5.10+
great route, nice thin moves on slightly overhung face. best rock on north fin. enjoy the oak tree if you whip off higher up and try to remember the first thirty feet when you get to the slab ledge ending
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