Located around the corner and upslope of Slippery When Wet. You can setup a toprope from the top of the first pitch of Slippery When Wet. Climb face to crack - up slightly overhanging section then left over ledge to anchors.
Fun route starting well right of Slippery When Wet...goes pretty much straight up......crux protects well (I think I put in two pieces) and it shares anchors with top of 1st pitch of slippery.. The first time I did this climb it was an accident. I thought I was on Slippery... I was thinking to myself that Slippery was the most sandbagged route ever! Link BBC with second pitch of slippery for 2 good pitches.
I disagree with Wes about the protection. Textbook cam placements protect the crux, but they are in somewhat questionable rock--could pull out and the bolt would not keep you off the ground at that point. But maybe I have not been climbing enough lately to be objective, who knows.
Also, FYI, this route is right at 100 ft, rather than 80 as indicated above and in the guidebook.
Did this route again a few weeks ago. I would not recomend it to a 5.10a fledgling trad climber. Fun moves, good rock, but gear is less than obvious if your a newbie, with big fall potentential if your gear blows. Do the time, learn the ropes, then get on the sharp end on this route.
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