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Nancy's Thumb Tower Regular Route 

5.7

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 513 page views

Submitted By: Nick Kuhn on Dec 20, 2002


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Here's a photo I took of Tim Lee at the crux of "B...


Description 

This route is on the West face of Nancy's Thumb Tower, a 30'-high block on top of the East side of North Fin. Follow the only vertical crack up the right side of the face to the two-bolt chain anchors above. The climbing thorugh the crack is easy, though airy as you glance to your right. The final moves near the bolt are awkward. This climb is listed in EFR's "Squeezing the Lemmon II" as a 5.4, with gear and chains. Those moves at the top, though short, are way beyond 5.4, so maybe something broke off and a bolt was subsequently added.


Protection 

A 3-3.5 Friend and a handful of small to medium nuts or tricams. A quickdraw for the solitary bolt. Chain anchors on top.



Add Comment Comments on Nancy's Thumb Tower Regular Route
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By Kenyon Kehl
Aug 15, 2003

If I'm not mistaken, the 5.4 Regular Route ascends Nancy's Thumb on the LEFT side of its west face, exactly opposite Nancy's Crack. You'll find no bolt, and the only pro, if necessary is a placement in a horizontal flake halfway up. The top 10 feet are on ledges in the left facing corner. This really is 5.4, and good for accessing the anchors to toprope Nancy's Crack.

By Vincent Greene
Apr 3, 2004
rating: 5.8

The route described is actually "Ben there dun that", which was put up by Tim Lee, Keith Powell, Mary Jones, and Ben Burnham. I think the bolt-protected move near the top is a solid 5.8.

By Nick Kuhn
Apr 3, 2004

Thanks to Kenyon and Vincent for clarifying this route. E-beers are on me.