Agatha Christie (Direct) 

I seem to remember one of the blocks down low was flexing quite a bit the last time I climbed this one. That was probably back in '01 or '02.

Great climb! Don't think I'd recommend it as a first lead, though, which Squeezing the Lemmon does as well. I found it a bit tricky to protect and it was my 110th lead (yes, I keep track, I'm a dork).

This is a great climb to take a beginner to and throw them on TR. My buddy who is new to climbing outdoors really enjoyed it.

Also wouldn't recommend this for an onsight lead attempt by a beginning trad leader..The climb is steeper than it looks from the bottom, there's some balancy stances and committing moves, and knowing when to sling long is important.

There's bomber pro to be had, but a beginner could easily end up using some of the flaring and/or irregular stuff that might hold a good yank but not a lead fall ( i.e. a placement where you can see two of the cams are well-set but the other two are hard to see and could be tipped out). With all the blocky, ledgy stuff, any fall that pulls a piece is guaranteed to be ugly.

I placed 9 cams + one nut on this. There's probably more passive pro to be had, but I would recommend against going up with just a handful of cams, which might be just the case for a beginner starting his rack.

Worth repeating! The layback halfway up felt like the crux with ok pro.

the large flake right at the start of this route is loose. pop a cam in and watch it wiggle. it's likely to fall right where you want to put your rope, so be aware. fun climbing on less than solid rock, i doubt a first time leader would be comfy with the gear

I toproped this since I don't have any trad gear. I would say the majority of the route is a 5.7 with 5.8 at the right-sloping crack midway up. That crack is PERFECT. It was a nice break from some of the razor edge rock on the rest of North Fin.