North Fin hosts a very high concentration of quality rock routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.13. With both trad, sport, and mixed climbs there is something for everyone, and rock quality is generally excellent. It is also very accessible from Windy Point making it a popular destination.
Most of the climbs are east facing and shady in spots, especially later in the day. Though there are a few climbs at the southern end, including the ever-popular Slippery When Wet (5.7), that receive sun until late afternoon.
Getting There
Driving up the Catalina Highway, park at Windy Point (mp 14.3). From the uphill end of the parking lot, opposite the overlook, cross the highway to the guardrail. An obvious trail leads off from the upper end of the guard rail.
Hike this trail out the ridge away from the highway. As you near the end of the ridge (couple hundred yards), find a trail that drops sharply down the right side along a small cliff. It may take some looking to find the right spot, but once you do, it will be obvious.
Continuing down this trail, you will approach Nancy's Thumb, a large pinnacle with an obvious crack on the north side. The base of North Fin climbs are accessed by descending the steep gully just below Nancy's Thumb. The climbs are on the right hand wall as you descend. Allow five minutes for the approach.
You can also set up topropes by walking around the back side of Nancy's Thumb to access the anchors.
'Slippery When Wet' starts up a broken dihedral near the south end of north fin. It is down the slope from 'Agatha Christie' and Nancy's Thumb.Pitch 1: Climb delicate moves up dihedral and past hanging blocks. Continue up buttress, past one bolt protecting thin moves. Trend right to reach another large ledge with two bolt belay. Pitch 2: Exit belay ledge up and right to prominent crack system. Climb the obvious left facing dihedral to easier...[more]
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