This route is basically a hard boulder problem (V3/4, IMO) up to a good hands free rest. After that a long, dynamic move puts you onto easier terrain. After the last bolt directly on Change in Luck, it's a long, traversing runout to join Skid Mark at the last bolt and then chains shortly thereafter. The climbing on this runout is very moderate.
Change in Luck currently shares anchors with Skid Mark, around 10 feet to the right and perhaps 25 feet above the last bolt directly on Change in Luck. A spicy runout--a fall near the top could have you swinging hard into the cliff in front of New Wave.
A fun climb worth getting on if you've already tagged some of the better lines on the wall.
Note: the right side of the big hole that you rest in feels pretty rotten--use it gently.
Note: Stick-clipping the second bolt is not a bad idea; very difficult climbing to a difficult clipping position.
Location
This is the line left of Skid Mark, which is the line left of Holey Moley. Shares last bolt and anchors with Skid Mark.
Protection
Bolts, Anchors, extra long runners to hang on the last bolt if you want to give your partners an easier, safer lead.
EFR lists this route as .12 (I think) and McMillen has it at 12a. I'm pretty sure it's closer to .12c: crux moves as hard as (or slightly harder than) Right Tissue, but less sustained.
I didn't think the runout traverse into the top of Skid Mark added anything but unnecessary danger to the climb. I'd prefer anchors directly above the line right at the break in the cliff. Still, route is fun enough that it's worth putting up with the runout.
By jbaker From: Tucson, AZ Oct 19, 2009 rating: 5.12b
This route dates back to the EARLY days of sport on Lemmon. We were all mentally still in trad mode. That explains the run-out. It was assumed that you would either just run it out or plug a cam in the horizontal.
I saw many talented climbers of the time fail to on-sight the start. Most of us (well me anyway) thought that stick-clipping the start was cheating because it took away the danger of an ankle-smashing fall. If you stick-clip, you have pretty much turned it into a top-rope. But it's your ankle.
At the time, I thought this route required a stiff-as-hell shoe for the opening moves. Then I watched Bobbie Bensman CRUISE the route (on-sight, effortless) in the softest shoe of the day. I was impressed.
By jbaker From: Tucson, AZ Oct 19, 2009 rating: 5.12b
FA John Fowler, Scott A, Brent Olson
By jbaker From: Tucson, AZ Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.12b
I checked my old journal for my entry on Change Of Luck. I rated it 12b at the time. That makes Bobbie's cruise even more impressive.
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