Climb past the roofs to a hard move changing from the right side of the arete to the left side. Easy climbing leads to the anchors. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)
Location
At the far upper left end of the Troll Wall is a partially separated small tower with an attractive arête. This route starts beneath the arête, under some tiered roofs.
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Aug 12, 2008 rating: 5.10b PG13
One option is to not try to follow the bolts around the right of the arete. Instead, move up onto the face (to the left) after clipping the first bolt on the right facing side of the arete, slabbing up to the last bolt then arriving at the anchors.
I used the option Daryl described and skipped the bolt that keeps heading right and got on the slab as soon as possible.
To keep going right seemed impossibly hard and not 10+. Seen a solid 11 climber fall there repeatedly.
Skipping that bolt to get on the slab right away makes it about 10b and PG-13 just like Daryl suggested. The second move on the slab that might get you in trouble if you fall is not the crux; maybe a 9+ move.
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Dec 10, 2008 rating: 5.10b PG13
You know, I probably should i have mentioned i was comfortably tethered on toprope after Christian put this up for us so, on lead, YMMV somewhat. :)
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