Short hard crux of thin face moves down low with more moderate climbing to the anchors. There are some fun reaches getting to the shelf and then a bit more sustain pump above that.
Maybe one can aid to the 2nd bolt and then redpoint from there and call it 11a or so...
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Jul 9, 2008
I am curious if anyone has done this route. I hate to be a number chaser, but I'd like to see if people really think it is 12a. Such a short crux. Don't hesitate to hurt my ego, I'd still be happy with 11d, don't see how it could possibly be any easier than that. I am just gonna go ahead and call it my first 12a redpoint.
Man, Joseph, you and I had opposite experiences on this climb. The crux is short, but it shut me down hard. I must have tried 15 times the other day, and never could get it on a redpoint attempt. I'd definitely take full credit for 5.12 if this was my first one.
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Jun 18, 2009
The crux took me about 20 tries at least to just figure out a possible sequence. After that, the redpoint only took about 4 tries. I love beautiful, short, and hard sequences that lead to big holds.
The secret for me was finding the perfect right foot hold for going to the sharp pocket. There is a tiny horizontal bit on the lower part of the prow like bulge that has the right hand sidepull on it.
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