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Take Apart the Robots 

5.8+

   

FA: Alex Kiss, Mike Strassman - 1982
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Season: late Spring, Summer, Fall
Views: 249 page views

Submitted By: Christian on Mar 19, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Take Apart the Robots


Description 

(by Scott Ayers) The original moderate plum of the crag, but a thought-provoking and difficult lead for its grade. Not the best choice for an aspiring 5.8 leader, if the quantities of seasonal bail-off gear are any indication. It is recommended to belay/lower from the bolted rappel station below the pine tree, as this marks the end of the quality climbing. Follow the left-leaning, left-facing corner for about 30 feet till it ends, then step back left and into the prominent right-facing corner that defines the bulk of the remaining difficulties. Pro to 3½”, 65 feet.


Location 

Towards right end of the wall, just left of "Slip Service"


Protection 

Pro to 3½”, Chains at 65 feet.



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By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.9

This is a fun climb, but sustained and steep, so 5.8 leaders should proceed with caution. Pro is good for most of the way, but not great up high. The roof mentioned near the top of the route is small, but bulgy and awkward. I took a 30 foot whipper from this move, and saw another fellow fall 20 feet a week later on the same move. Careful here!

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Jun 20, 2008

If I remember correctly, the gear near the roof move is kind of thin, a blue Alien maybe? Did you pull gear when you fell?

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Jun 20, 2008

RIP Mike Strassman, never had the pleasure of meeting him but thanks for all the great routes.

By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.9

Yes, in fact I pulled a blue alien! First piece I've ever pulled... Stopper below that held.