Stem up chimney then onto right face. Fun to watch new climbers fresh from the gym try to face climb one of the walls. More fun to watch your short-legged friends get butt-cheek-cramps while stemming.
Location
In wide chimney between first two towers. Bolts go up right side then onto face.
This climb scares people for some reason. Guess they never learned to stem. It is an easy 5.6 if you stem it. Scott says it would be closer to 5.10 as a face climb. I would rather stem it myself.
I was scared on this route. It wasn't extremely difficult, just feels weird when you look down and the rock is on your sides and not in front or behind you. I have never done a chimney. But I get scared on anything that I don't have to rely on handholds for!
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Oct 1, 2007 rating: 5.7
the stem isn't very hard but the face at the end is probably more like 5.7-. since 5.7- isn't available i rate this one at 5.7. i found it quite fun.