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Butterfly Wall
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Iron Butterfly 

5.12a

   

FA: Eric Rhicard, Jim Scott, Vince Bates
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 175 page views

Submitted By: Chris Prewitt on Oct 21, 2009


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Vince crankin at Butterfly. Jimbo Photo.


Description 

Great rock forever. Iron Butterfly climbs up the center of the tall central prow of the Butterfly Wall.

(Any gear found at the belay ledge should be left for subsquent parties.)


Location 

This is the left line of bolts from the small belay ledge on the right side of the huge prow.


Protection 

Many bolts(15?) + anchors, 70M rope. Climber must unclip draws and maintain contact with the belay side to prevent being stranded in space.



Photos of Iron Butterfly Slideshow Add Photo
Stephanie shows us old dudes what it means to be flexible.

Stephanie shows us old dudes what it means to be f...

Jimbo high up with a long way still to go. <br />The big roof crack above and to the left still awaits an assent. <br /><br />Photo: EFR

Jimbo high up with a long way still to go.
The b...


Comments on Iron Butterfly Add Comment
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By Eric Rhicard
Oct 21, 2009

When lowering back to the ledge the climber needs to unclip a lot of the higher bolts as getting back to the ledge is a real rope stretcher. You also might find out that your 70M rope isn't 70M long as Jimbo and I did one day. We didn't tie into the belay end of the rope either. We tied a figure eight into the end and with some ropes the climber returned to the ledge as the knot wedged into the belay device.