Starts with a short lieback seam, ends with easier face climbing. In the between is lots of slab. Very thin and fairly technical, makes you appreciate sticky rubber.
Location
Between "Silmarillion" and "Middle Earth" near the right end of the cliff. Starts up right-facing crack. The anchors on this climb are the intermediate rap anchors to get off "Silmarillion", "Middle Earth", and "Pull Me Up".
I somehow managed to onsight this thing, maybe because the alternative was decking..I guess with a really skilled belayer you could maybe stay off the ground if you blew it near the (2nd or 3rd?)bolt..Can't quite remember which clip gives the route its name..
Hell no Andy, I'll do "Middle Earth" and rap down to the "Sketchy" Anchors instead :-) We should get out there before it gets too cold.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? May 12, 2008 rating: 5.10c
After 12 years of not visiting the area I ventured down to ME this weekend. This was the first route we did. I chose not to lead it and just tagged along on the TR. No falls, but believe me, it could have happened anytime. Those opening moves can be slick and an eye opener right out of bed.
Middle Earth
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