This is a really good moderately overhanging 5.11. Crux down low leads to larger holds but pumpy climbing with a redpoint crux up high. There are a couple of kneebars on this route if desired. Scott originally rated this climb 11a. Try it and see what you think.
Location
In the alcove 4th complete bolt line from the left up on the right hand platform. The route with the largest holds.
Highly recommend bringing 2 double-length runners for the belay stance at the base of this climb.
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand May 13, 2007 rating: 5.11c
Someone was nice enough to leave two nice biners at the top, making it easy to go up and down without having to untie.
This is a pure and simple steep jug haul. My type of climb! I didn't lead it but it will be a fun lead next time! Top rope it through the biners so that if you pop off you gotta start over:)
5.11a if all hold's stay in place. Those chaulky slick hold's make it hard enough on TR.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree May 12, 2008 rating: 5.11c
Steep and pumpy. Making the reach between the 2nd and 3rd bolts seems far at the end of the day. Epoxy holds are a nice touch. If they were to blow, this thing would be nearly impossible.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Mar 23, 2009 rating: 5.11c
this is an excellent climb. if you're working your way through the 5.11s on lemmon be sure to get on this gem; you don't find many climbs at the grade that are this steep around tucson.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Jun 19, 2009 rating: 5.11d
I noticed those nice biners are getting pretty worn. If you are planning to TR the thing then use your own draws. If you are afraid you won't make it to the top, remember you can always yard the belayers side of the rope to get up to your draws. Another thing that help reduce wear is to flip one of them over so they aren't both wearing at the gate opening end. Thanks
Water runs just to the left of the climb and over a few of the upper holds after its rained. This can make things more exciting, but it may not matter as its just .10D.
I guess I must have found all the jugs, and managed to skip the bad holds. Perhaps, someone with less reach, or shorter than me might find it more difficult. It was originally rated .11a anyway . . . so .10d isn't that far off.
Comparing this to Planet Eater, I think this route is easier. I would imagine with wet epoxy holds though, this would feel considerably more difficult.