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Middle Earth

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Bobbin' for Hobbits 
Breeze, The 
Delirious 
Earth Angel 
Elfin Warrior 
Fireball 
Grand Opening 
Irresistable 
Middle Earth 
Planet Eater, The 
Pull Me Up 
Red Hot 
Silmarillion 
You Betchy It's Sketchy 

Middle Earth

Submitted By: WSnyder on Apr 7, 2006
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel
Views: 1,389 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

Aleix fishing for feet on War of the Worlds, 5.12 ...


Description 

Spring and Fall. Summer is OK if you climb the far left side in the alcove until 2-3 pm. Mostly sport with a few gear routes. Routes from 5.8 through 5.12+. The alcove holds several overhanging sport routes a few of which are worth the visit. The rest of the crag has longer, less than vertical to vertical climbing and some of these are very good if you prefer these types of routes.


Getting There 

Follow EFR's description in the guidebook but the pullout is a little further up the road and on the left after the new road construction. The trail starts at the upper end of this new pullout.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Middle Earth   5.10     Sport, 155 feet   
Silmarillion   5.10     Sport, 150 feet   
The Planet Eater   5.11     Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet   
The Breeze   5.11c     Sport, 40 feet   
Delirious   5.12a     Sport, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth

Featured Route For Middle Earth
Aleix Serrat Capdevila AKA Tex glides across the traverse on his way to sending Delerious.<br /><br />Photo: Jim Scott

Delirious 5.12a  AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth
Another of the must do 12-'s on the mountain which will test your endurance. Starts straight up for a couple of bolts then traverses slightly right and up a ways to the rest ledge. Continue past the ledge to some tricky lower angle climbing to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Jesse works the laybacks at the start of War of the Worlds

Jesse works the laybacks at the start of War of th...

From the trail as it turns back to the south to reach the base of the cliff.  Stay as close to the base of the slabs as possible.  You want to walk right under Bobbin' For Hobbit's the route the climber (in red) is on.

BETA PHOTO: From the trail as it turns back to the south to re...


Comments on Middle Earth Add Comment
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By Joseph Stover
From: Chistchurch, New Zealand
May 14, 2007

There are several(at least 2) bolts missing hangers left of "The Breeze". I think the route left of the breeze has all of its hard ware but the two left of that are missing some stuff. Maybe more, I am not sure.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Sep 12, 2007

Would it be faster to approach Middle Earth via the Lizard Rock area?

By jbaker
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 12, 2007

Christian....the short answer is no...not faster. But it's not that much longer either.