pitch 1, good solid climbing to bolt and crux (5.11-) shortly after allows a non threatening swing. Continue to low angle/ledge area to belay. Escape to Crab Corner is possible here.
Although you can do it as one pitch, I'd recommend belaying mid pitch to keep the leader on R from hitting the ground (as I was witness to).
pitch 2 !!!!! stiff climbing (5.10-/10) with VERY, very hard to place pro (I got FOUR brass nuts including two #2 HB offsets) before reaching the crummy bolt (1/4" Leeper as of 1997). This is a very traditional old school lead not for the faint of heart up open territory. I would advise leading the route in the shade over direct sun.
Location
left of Rich and Dave route, 3rd route downhill from Mean Mistreater.
Protection
stoppers, cams to 3", and multiple brass nuts INCLUDING two #2 HB brass nuts at minimum.
access alert: the start is blocked by a tree so any would be ascent party might want to bring something to "trim" the access point. All the vegetation is new since the fire of 2003.
Also: First bolt is 3/8" w/ leeper hanger, 2nd is I think 1/4" w/ leeper.
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