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Mean Mistreater Wall
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Mean Mistreater 

5.10c

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 170 feet
Views: 552 page views

Submitted By: Wes Turner on Apr 9, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: Climbers on Mean Mistreater


Description 

This route is located in the middle of the Mean Mistreater formation. --Starts with a bolt up high and goes straight up face to a finger crack at top of P1 to chain anchors. --P2 head out right and then up to bolt 1 then back left to bolt 2. A fall at the crux could be a bad one because of the ledge. Tricky sequence on this crux so watch the fall. then up crack to short face and chain anchors. --This is an excellent climb in a beautiful setting. A true Mt. Lemmon classic. What a blast!!


Protection 

mixed route(around 4 or 5 bolts).. 2 pitches with chain anchorsquickdraws, nuts, cams to #1 (including the tiny stuff)



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By jbak
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 13, 2006

4 or 5 bolts ? Did some get added ? I only remember 2, one on each pitch.

By dcohn
Oct 6, 2007
rating: 5.10c

Amazing route. There are 2 bolts on each pitch. The crux is bolt protected but I don't think it would be that hard to protect using the crack.

By Mark and Stacy Egan
Oct 21, 2007
rating: 5.10c

I placed a number 0 TCU in the bottom side of the vertical crack at the crux on pitch 2 to avoid hitting the ledge if I pitched off. The TCU was about 2 feet above the bolt. Since I didn't fall, the placement went untested. --Mark

By Eric Rhicard
Nov 14, 2007

It isn't a sport route. If you are short 5'6" or less getting to the crack above the bolt is easier if you take an indirect (farther from the bolt) path. The crack mentioned in the previous comment takes a bomber stopper too.