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Matterhorn
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Alcove, The 
Standard Route 

Standard Route 

5.4

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
Length: 200 feet
Views: 281 page views

Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 5, 2006


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Nick Spriggshall topping out on the "Matterhorn."


Description 

Start in chimney formed by detached giant flake. There is a bolt at the stance on top of the flake. Move right then up easy face to hanging 2-bolt belay. Chickenhead hike to top, belaying off tree*. EFR doesn't give any stars, but the wannabe alpinist in me likes the idea of a summit, so I like this route. Fun and easy.

*Check that, apparently the tree has gone AWOL.


Location 

Begins in obvious alcove/chimney formed by big flake at left end of the west side (closest to road). Descent: Walk off to the north (away from face and left) and you will find a good tree with rap slings. Drop down into gully here on a short rap then walk off north and west.


Protection 

A few nuts and cams are good, slings for chickenheads, draws for one bolt and belay. Easy climbing, so expect to run it out.



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By rickd
Jun 5, 2007

best off the ground pitch of its grade in southern arizona, and easily the best beginner route on Mt Lemmon.