BETA PHOTO: Crime and Punishment (5.11) shown in green. Just ...
Description
A good possibly great route with fun moves and multiple cruxes. This route was done entirely from the ground and was never top-roped by Geir which makes it a proud first ascent. Geir figured out all the moves and protection by starting from the ground and climbing until he fell off. Tons of falls including a couple of 20 footers make his efforts noteworthy. Add to that the fact he has only ever done a handful of 5.12 sport routes and I have to tip my hat to him.
The route at first seems to be a total squeeze job. Despite using holds from routes on either side the pro is in a separate crack and the climbing closely follows it. The shared holds don't take away from the climb because you can't really bail to the other route to avoid the hard climbing. If you lead it you might ask yourself if a hold is on. IF YOU CAN REACH IT YOU CAN USE IT. At the top a single bolt drilled from a hook that popped off the first time protects the final crux with a 12 ft. run out to the top. This adds some spice to the finish and is typical of the routes at this cliff.
Location
This route starts up Crime and Punishment and moves left at the horizontal then follows the thin crack. It stays right of the anchors for Yard Boss until you are too high to use them. The anchors for this route are above the horn you see on the skyline.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Oct 20, 2009 rating: 5.12
Special thanks to Christian Rodenbeck, Eric Ruljancich, and EFR for catching my many falls and helping me figure out the beta for this climb. It was awesome fun!
Also thanks to EFR for the belay today, and congrats on the second ascent!
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Oct 22, 2009 rating: 5.12
thanks very much to all of you!
one anecdote from tuesday:
EFR helped me work the route through the day. we arrived in the morning and didn't get out of there until dusk. in the afternoon shade it got pretty cold and windy.
as we were wrapping up eric decided to take another run on it. he was pretty darn tired from climbing three hard days in a row, but climbed anyway. (he's an animal).
...and he sent! just goes to show how determination and the right attitude can be even more important than feeling strong or ideal conditions.
By Geir Hundal From: Tucson, AZ Nov 6, 2009 rating: 5.12
CONGRATS to "Canada" Eric Ruljancich for bagging the third ascent today!!! Awesome send my friend!
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