Warden climbs the steep face that rises right out of the creek-bed opposite the Guard Tower. It is presently the only climb on the wall and can easily be recognized by having two sets of chains up top. The route is very steep, even overhanging at points, but with big jugs at almost every move. Short and fun. Beware of falling early and hitting the rock ledge at the bottom of the climb. Also, some of the larger holds look like they might not last forever, so beware of those too.
Protection
This route has four bolts, and not one, but two sets of anchors!
Holds are pretty slick below the second bolt. Bear left after clipping the third bolt for the best holds. First ascent was Ben Burnam and Mark Brown in late 2000.
By Jim Thompson From: Tucson, AZ Jan 9, 2006 rating: 5.7+
Fun short route.The big flakey block is real positive, but would be a disaster if it ever comes off. Nice variety on this route considering how short it is.
The second set of anchors to the right is some mystery route.
As it says in the description this climb has some hollow flakes you have to clip from. The right hand set of anchors should never be used as the rock they are in may come out.
Before you clip into and lower or top-rope from the anchors to the right look at what they are drilled into. From above it looks like a boulder that is fractured all the way around. Also there is nothing under this rock to support it. I would rather see the route 3 feet shorter and have sound anchors.
Hey Hillary, if you know the folks that are planning on putting this route up ask them why they put the anchors 3 inches apart (Minimum should be 6 or more) and more importantly in a hollow block that I could pry off with a crowbar? If they are inexperienced (as it seems) have them call me I would be happy to give them some basics about bolting. In fact if they are really in to FAs I can set them up with new routes to do. My number is in the guidebook under corrections.
What makes this climb rated R? Are the rocks shaped like boobies?
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ Mar 21, 2007 rating: 5.7 R
Hmm, what would that mean an X-rated climb's holds were shaped like?
The reason is the large questionable-looking block about halfway up. It's only a matter of time before someone yards it off onto their belayer. That said, it's been there for years without incident... Still, I'd stand back if I were belaying.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Oct 12, 2007 rating: 5.7+ R
that flake is dangerous, i really didn't want to pull on it but in the end i had to. chopping it might ruin the route but it also might prevent a serious accident in the not-too-distant future. plus having to pull on a massive hollow flake kind of ruins the route to begin with.
hell without the flake it might just make a decent 9+.
By joshf From: Tucson, AZ Oct 25, 2007 rating: 5.7 R
totally choss. the flake in the middle is going to come off sometime, the route is 25 feet long and the anchors are not in good rock. rockfall potential and bad anchor rock negates the attractive steepness of this climb.
Jailhouse Rock
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