Center route on the guard tower formation. This route is pretty fun on TR, not sure how the pro in the crack is, and maybe a fun lead if the bolt had a hanger. Thin moves up to a crack and a tricky crux to reach above the roof, then a fun pull over it.
Protection
Bolt (missing hanger) + a few gear placements, chains up top
That hanger has been MIA for year's now! Pretty lame as this is a pretty popular area.
By Forest Hill From: Denver, CO Apr 5, 2009 rating: 5.10+
There's a bomber #1 camelot placement about 3" right of the hangerless bolt.
The hangerless bolts got that way after I mentioned the placement to Ben (having onsighted it with all gear.) He told me he'd take the bolt out. Looks like he just took the hanger off instead. :-(
There's also room for decent pro probably in the green to yellow alien range under the roof, but the placement next to the bolt is much much better.
This was my first 5.10 trad lead many years ago, I think. Just top-roped it recently, and found it plenty challenging.
For what it's worth, the gear in the thin crack is fantastic. As I recall, I sewed it up pretty good with nuts and small cams.
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