I drilled anchors on this route but did not find the climbing to be good enough to warrant drilling it for lead. There are several ways to do this route: mantling up the smooth slab and working rightleads you to a large roof with somewhat chossy rock, pulling over this is probably a 10- move, perhaps more difficult for shorter people. If you move left and go through the smaller section of roof, there are several very small, difficult to find crimps that create a one or two move 5.11. One can also move very far left to a small section of crack that is probably 5.6 or so.
Location
Directly opposite of sentence to hang on the short towerlike formation. To toprope it just walk back up on the normal trail and walk over to the edge where you can see the anchors for the new 12's. Look down and you'll see bolts on the tallest part of the formation.
Protection
There two bolts with protection hangers at the top. Since you have to go to the top anyway, just put draws on and grab them on your way out.
If anyone wants to name this climb feel free to make some suggestions, I'm not sure that anyone has climbed the top section of this route, although i have seen people boulder the bottom part so for the FA I don't really know who to give credit.
By Chen From: Tucson, AZ Jan 10, 2008 rating: 5.10
Short but fun climb. The beginning part of this climb is tricky if you are not 6'4". At 5’10” I kind of mantled and hopped onto the flat step with my right foot. For the top part, if you go left it’s pretty easy, but if you go up over the roof it is definitely a 5.10 move. I have climbed it both ways.
Jailhouse Rock
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