Sentenced To Hang 

Hey Luke, why should several of the bolts be replaced? If they are 5/16th buttonheads (I can't remember) they are as strong as a 3/8ths. The SMC Hangers are the newer safe ones. The rock there is as hard as any in southern AZ. Go to Safe Climbing .org or whatever it is called and ask them how safe the bolts that you say need to be replaced are. I will take twenty twenty footers on all but the lowest bolts. You might want to do a bit of research before you start typing!

This is a really good route. It may be on my "top ten 5.12s in So AZ" list. The buttonheads got my attention too, but I swallowed hard and ignored them. Closer to 12b than 12c. I'm surprised my old buddy Chris Henze never talked this route up to me.

Those buttonheads are 5/16ths bolts. Go to any bolt safety site and they will tell you how tough they are. They are as strong as any 3/8th bolt as they have no threads. This means they are as strong. Ask Jerry Cagle or Geir how hard they are to remove. We took a bunch out when we rebolted Warpaint. On top of that they are in the hardest rock we climb on in S. Arizona. If you want to replace them feel free Jbak. Just don't make it impossible for me to clip them.

I believe you brother. I trusted them enough to risk some good plunkers. Are they stainless ? I noticed that wall gets a lot of seepage after a snowstorm. Great route, it climbs better than it looks and it doesn't look bad at all.

Replaced all the 5/16ths button heads with 3/8ths stainless as well as the rusty looking first bolt. All were in good condition and would have lasted another 20 years. Now it's good to go for a long time.

Well since Jimbo showed me his MasterBeta (wait...that doesn't sound right...) Since Master Jimbo showed me his beta I was thinking that this route was only 12a. But I went back today and found that applying that beta was a bit more difficult if you didn't hang just before. So I used a modified version and it worked but I'm now convinced that 12b is correct.

Honestly the rating debates get to be a little much, but here goes. I thought Sentenced was and is harder than Tsunami on New Wave. I climbed it a couple of weekends ago and still think it is. Additionally, just because something becomes "easier" for a given climber does not mean the climb is easier. People never seem to conisder they might just be getting stronger. At any rating it is a great climb.

Have not had the chance yet, but I am psyched to get on the new routes down there. Thanks to all of the developers and people maintaining our crags.

Sorry Luke and as much as I hate to admit it, Jbak is right, the route is 12b. Perhaps the exposure got to you. Or maybe the holds not having tape goofed up your sequence. Just messing with you Luke. If you get on it again I think you might agree with Jbak.

So you hate to see it down-rated ? Or you hate to agree with me ?

Hell I was hoping Luke was right and I'm getting stronger.

I think Sentenced to Hang is easier than Tsunami. There are two good rests on Sentenced and no rests on Tsunami.

Jim, the way you hiked it, no wonder you think it's easy.

I'm off to Tsumami tomorrow, then I'll give you the true scoop on which is harder. Unless I'm having a bad day, or it's too cold, or too hot, or the wind is blowing...... Stay tuned...

OK, Tsunami is definitely a letter grade harder than Sentenced to Hang.
So there you have it.

I almost want to say that this route is easier than the start to climb spree (on toprope)! But maybe a lead will change that idea.

There isn't a move on Sentenced to Hang that is as hard as the opening moved on Crime Spree. Sentenced gets the 5.12- because it's steep and there are a bunch of 5.11 moves. If you put a bunch more 5.11d moves on Sentenced it would be 5.12c/d. Crime Spree has a hard start but the rest of the climbing is easier than Sentenced.
P.S. You should stop top roping these climbs and start leading them, they are well bolted and you'll be a better climber for it.

Yes. I definitely will lead this route next time I am at this wall. So maybe the rating is 11c/d for a toprope hangdog, 12a/b for a redpoint and 12c for a flash! ...and 13a if you do it with your eyes closed!