Crime and Punishment 

I found the protection on this route to be quite different than what this description implies. There is only one bolt, but it is near the top of the route, and though it might be possible to hang out and fiddle in some small stuff, this isn't the greatest spot to camp out and finesse the tiny brass and cams that someone left some parts out of (my attempt at a TCU joke). More than likely you'll clip the bolt and gun it to the chains; sure it's far...they don't call it ScArizona for nothing. Here is my take:
Climb steep, smooth, discontinuous cracks and great jugs placing bomber pro of all sizes until you get to the meat of the climbing(you could fit anything from thin to 3" cams, but most will find stoppers and cams from .5-1.75" most helpful). A good rest is had before moving up and clipping the bolt, then figure out the out-of-character crux moves before gaining the anchor ledges.
Well worth lugging that heavy trad crap WAY out to the crag to get on this one.

great route! i took a red tcu about 8 ft up, a purple metolius cam in the horizontal to the right, the fattest nut i could find for the crack just below the jug/hand jam rest, a black power cam in the last bit of flared crack(dont think, just go) and a quick draw for the bolt. dont bother bringing anything for higher up, it gets a lot easier, its all air and the bolt is solid (trust me). One of the anchors was wiggly so there's now a new fixe rap ring to the left, clipping it's 3/8 bolt and the bottom of the chains with long runners is definitely good for your line if your top roping. super fun.

Hmmm, maybe we were tired, and maybe the stars weren't aligned right, but the top of this climb past the bolt seemed incredibly hard. My partner who just had just led sentenced to hang, couldn't do it. I couldn't do it either. Felt more like 5.12+. We are hoping it is because a hold blew off, but more likely that we just aren't very good climbers ;)

Probably more about doing Sentenced... before getting on it. It is key to get the sequence that works for you. I have had the same experience and once didn't think I would even get up it only to cruise it the next time out. It could be closer to 11+ than 11 though. Glad that bolt is there.

Yeah, maybe it's time stop climbing and start playing croquet. That is one tricky little sequence. I looked a long time for the key to unlock it, but couldn't find it. Maybe next time. Problem solving is one of the reason why I like climbing - and guess I have a problem to work on. Also very glad that bolt is there.

This route has a stopper crux but once you figure it out its .11. I've seen some hard climbers get tossed around for a while on this and it took me more tries than i'd like to admit as well...cryptic but not harder than .11