Mountain Project: Climbing Mount Lemmon

The is the left-most of the three Cell Block climbs. The Cell Blocks can be found on the west side of the creek, just above the point where it makes a 90 degree turn to the east.

Cell Block Eight is a great climb capped off by an airy and committing move to get you to the top. The first 50 feet of the climb leads past 3 bolts on relatively low angle slab. At this point, rather than going over the roof to get you onto the "Cell Block", the route follows cracks along the right side of the block, where an exciting blind step takes you around to the face at the top of the climb.

This climb makes for an exciting moderate lead.

Protection

There are 4 bolts on this route. The climbing between the 3rd and 4th bolts is a bit runout, which could be helped by small/medium nuts or cams. There are chains at the top of this climb.

Comments on Cell Block Eight

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By Joseph Stover
From: Chistchurch, New Zealand
Dec 11, 2005

What is the rating for going directly up onto the cell block rather than going to the side to the last bolt(on top rope of course)? I thought it might be a 5.10+/5.11- move.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
May 5, 2008

Its rated 10+ if you go strait through

By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jun 26, 2008
rating: 5.7+ R

Not only is the climbing between the 3rd and 4th bolts runout, but you can't see the 4th bolt (which is on the arete above/right of the roof) or the anchors from even six feet above the 3rd bolt, so if you haven't done the climb before, it looks like there's nothing there. It's there-- just have to keep climbing. You will probably want a cam or nut between bolts 3 and 4. Otherwise a fall would hurt. Fun climb.

By kurt schroeder
Nov 30, 2008

This was not put up as a sport route. I always showed a cam or two up under the ledge snaking around to the right of the block. If my head was right, only one cam. The first time I led it as I stepped out left a big chunk of the hold broke off.!!This leaves the small foot hold now there. Sorry. I did see Matt Bunz do it direct once, 10d, 10+ seems about right. kas

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2009

To agree with the posts above, this is not a sport route. You'll be very unhappy without at least a set of nuts and a couple medium cams.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Apr 6, 2009

Changing the description to "sport,trad" would probably help as far as people not thinking it's a sport route. I believe it's listed as mixed (B,G) in the guidebook as well.

By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.7+

I'm with Meghan, 5.7+R

If you're not putting gear in during the 5.5 section....don't fall.

Cell Block Eight

5.8

Description

Protection

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