This climb heads up the obvious zig-zagging crack on the Alcatraz Wall. This is the last major crag on the east side of the creek as you head down through Jailhouse Rock. To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.
This is a nice lead if you're looking for a relaxed climb where you can practice super-easy gear placement. The 5.7 rating is a bit too stiff. The hardest move seems to be getting off the ground, after which the route follows the major crack up and right, cuts across the face where the going gets easy, and rejoins the crack up top.
Protection
Small and medium cams and stoppers. There are chains up top.
I was climbing at Alcatraz Wall on 6/29 and noticed that the waist level belay bolts (cold shuts) had been chopped (not removed, CHOPPED). The foot level belay bolt on the new route between Scarface and Hoosgal is still present. The chopping happened since the last time I climbed there in Jan/Feb.
Very uncool. Wonder if it was the same person who took the pins off Standard Route on Chimney Rock?
Please contact me if you have any info.
George Marsden
gbmaz@yahoo.com
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ Jun 5, 2006 rating: 5.7
Pretty easy climbing. I agree there may be no 5.7 move. It is runout to the first gear placement but pretty relaxed thereafter.
By joshf From: Tucson, AZ Nov 23, 2007 rating: 5.6
this climb essentially becomes a staircase after the first 20 feet, the protection takes some thought because there is a bit of dirt and blocky rock around.
Jailhouse Rock
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