Attention all crack climbers...this one is a Lemmon gem. A high quality crack that eats up gear and has got to be one of the few cracks of its kind on the mountain.
Even if you're TRing it, you probably want to take a #2 Camalot to keep yourself on the route and rest a bit if you fall..
It's overhanging enough that it could be a serious pain in the ass trying to get back on (and staying on before climbing again)..
By Chris Prewitt From: Tucson, AZ Jan 28, 2008 rating: 5.10c/d
While it is true that this is "one of the few cracks of it's kind" on ML, I would not go as far as to call it a "gem" or "high quality". Nice things about it are that it's five minutes from the car and takes gear well, so you can use it as a stepping stone to longer, harder lines. Oh, and compared to other cracks of this kind 11- is strecthing it.
I climbed this last week after not doing it for almost a decade. The 'new' anchors are equipped with rap links but are way too far back to be of any use for rapping (they are fine for setting up an anchor and walking off). I am going to move them closer to the edge on the upper block so that the route can be set up after a lead or TR with a couple draws. I will make sure it does not preclude the topout moves. It will just save rope wear and a little bit of time. This is a good place to run into for a quick 1.5 hour, 4 pitch, lunch breack, session. It is also a good place to self belay. Any objections??
Also, this route is really, really good if you want to get some jamming in. Don't care much about the grade these days, but it is a gem; high quality, solid rock, good jamming, steep, and shady. It is a bit easier than some of the other 11 cracks on the mountain.
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