On the first ascent Joe led this route with only one bolt placed. Soon after he added the top bolt to make the route safer for the rest of us. It is still runout to the first bolt, and most people begin this by climbing the direct start to Steve's Arete.
Location
This is the next route left of Steve's Arete. Note that there is a direct start to Steve's Arete, which offers a better protected way to begin this route. The original line was left of this, however.
Protection
2 bolts. Plus more if you begin with Steve's Arete Direct.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ May 20, 2008 rating: 5.10c
this is the route just left of steve's arete with the crux section down low and the fun overhanging stuff at the top, right? if it is then something's gone horribly wrong with the description; there are way more than 2 or 3 bolts on this thing.
or maybe my brain's on strike and i can't understand the submitters "education intellect" (to quote jeff fasset).
The two bolts close to the arete are the direct start to Steve's Arete. Danglefoot starts to the left of that with no pro until you are up a ways. Probably an R route nowadays. I think a lot of people start on the direct and work up an left to Danglefoot. Climb it and post up so we know where this route goes.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ May 20, 2008 rating: 5.10c
oh. i've climbed it twice, though technically it seems that i've started on the direct start for steve's. unfortunately i don't have the testicular fortitude to try the real start for danglefoot.
while i've got your attention, do you mind if i post that .11a to the left of this route that you and jimbo bolted?
I'm kidding Jon, post away. I have probably posted as many routes as anyone on here has. If I was really worried I wouldn't post at all. Besides this way I get to watch the posters take the kind of crap I get for stuff I write in the guidebook!
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ May 21, 2008 rating: 5.10c
whoops. it looks like i lose at detecting sarcasm today.
the thing is, i've actually heard that request made before, and for the same reason. O_O