An outstanding overhanging arete. Really positive holds and some great crimps as you get towards the top. Beware of the pump factor, and don't fear the height of the first bolt. It's on the cover of the Rock Climbing Arizona book. Great photo ops.
The first bolt is a bit of a stretch on challenging rock. Unless you're very comfortable at the grade, you may consider traversing in from the right to clip the bolt first. Then give the direct start a go.
By Erik Murdock From: Tucson, Arizona May 22, 2004
First ascent by Steve Grossman. The first bolt is gained by climbing on the ledge and traversing left. It should be easy to clip for anyone. The direct start (down and left) was bolted about a year ago by Rhicard. It adds some 10+ moves to the climb. Bolts were replaced with more modern equipment within the last two years.
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.11a
Location, location, location. Great moves too on this area classic.
This route is only popular cause it is popular! Well it's photogenic too. It's worth climbing and projecting, but is not worth it's reputation as a 4 star classic. I think the face start at the bottom is my favorite part!
It is also misleading when people use this route as the "standard" 11a. This route only requires sustain and strength. Many other 11a/10d's on Mt Lemmon require much more technique and not so much endurance. This route took me more tries than any other 11a, and several 11b's!
Have to agree with Jbak two stars. That is what SQ II says so it must be true! You can add 15 feet by doing the direct start but it doesn't add any stars. Still a fun route.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ May 20, 2008 rating: 5.11a