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Steve's Arete 

Steve's Arete 

5.11a

   
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FA: Steve Grossman
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 1,636 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 9, 2003


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Mark Egan looks for his next move.


Description 

An outstanding overhanging arete. Really positive holds and some great crimps as you get towards the top. Beware of the pump factor, and don't fear the height of the first bolt. It's on the cover of the Rock Climbing Arizona book. Great photo ops.


Protection 

4 bolts to chain anchors, quickdraws only.



Add Photo Photos of Steve's Arete
Ooops, I got pumped!  I was trying to clip the last bolt with about 3 feet of slack in my mouth when I mumbled take... at least I let the rope out of my chompers!

Ooops, I got pumped! I was trying to clip the las...

Andrew, glad to be top roped.

Andrew, glad to be top roped.

Caleb Bechman setting the record for the coldest and windiest ascent of Steve's Arete.  Photo by Walter Pafford.

Caleb Bechman setting the record for the coldest a...

Jay Tanzman on Steve's Arete.  Photo: Hillary Davis <a href='http://hillarydavis.com' target='_blank'>http://hillarydavis.com</a>

Jay Tanzman on Steve's Arete. Photo: Hillary Davi...

Steve's Arete w/Moon.

Steve's Arete w/Moon.

Fighting the pump

Fighting the pump

This things a classic!

This things a classic!


Add Comment Comments on Steve's Arete
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By Nick Kuhn
Feb 23, 2004

The first bolt is a bit of a stretch on challenging rock. Unless you're very comfortable at the grade, you may consider traversing in from the right to clip the bolt first. Then give the direct start a go.

By Erik Murdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 22, 2004

First ascent by Steve Grossman. The first bolt is gained by climbing on the ledge and traversing left. It should be easy to clip for anyone. The direct start (down and left) was bolted about a year ago by Rhicard. It adds some 10+ moves to the climb. Bolts were replaced with more modern equipment within the last two years.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a

Location, location, location. Great moves too on this area classic.

By jbak
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 17, 2007

Hard to give a 20 foot route more than 2 stars...

By Joseph Stover
Dec 4, 2007
rating: 5.11a

This route is only popular cause it is popular! Well it's photogenic too. It's worth climbing and projecting, but is not worth it's reputation as a 4 star classic. I think the face start at the bottom is my favorite part!

It is also misleading when people use this route as the "standard" 11a. This route only requires sustain and strength. Many other 11a/10d's on Mt Lemmon require much more technique and not so much endurance. This route took me more tries than any other 11a, and several 11b's!

By lamina
Dec 7, 2007

thanks for listing the baker's dozen top sport 11s :)
These routes are great(for grandma)to learn a wide variety of style, skills and techniques.

By jbak
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 7, 2007

You got it !

You not only half long...you half smart.

Chunky Monkey is on the Sunny Side.

By Eric Rhicard
Mar 5, 2008

Have to agree with Jbak two stars. That is what SQ II says so it must be true! You can add 15 feet by doing the direct start but it doesn't add any stars. Still a fun route.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.11a

classic 25 feet