The north side of Hitchcock Pinnacle is one of the most climbed routes on Mt Lemmon.
Standing below the north face, stem up onto the large block/ledge atached to the right side of the pillar. From here, step left onto face and edge up past one bolt to a large flake. Up flake and right to top out.
Lower off chains.
Protection
small nuts, tri-cams, slcd's...tricky pro?quickdraws
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 2, 2005 rating: 5.7
Aesthetically, this is a two star route. Subtract a star for every 10 tourists or every single RV at the pullout.
I understand there was a small bolting issue on this rock. There is currently one bolt on this route. Strangely, the remaining bolt is next to the best natural protection available on the route. Down lower, a variety of aliens come in handy.
There are currently two bolts protecting this route -- the first is just around the corner as you step onto the face, and the second to the left of the bulge. (See photo).
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 19, 2005 rating: 5.7
Jay, I think that first bolt is off-route. I think there is another route that goes up that side. If you traverse in lower, you can protect those horizontal cracks with aliens or cams of similar size. OR you can go straight up from the ground through those horizontals :)
You are right, Bobby. I believe that first bolt is for the 5.8 route that goes pretty much straight up from that spot. Thanks for catching my mistake.
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ May 9, 2006 rating: 5.7
I actually think climbing the route in front of tourists is part pf the fun. Normally it's annoying, but you have to accept it for this particular route. I say pick a major holiday and do it with a real crowd. You'll get a huge round of applause and tons of cameras will snap your picture atop the pinnacle. Tourists will surround you after you rap off and ask questions like "How tall is that, like 200 feet?" and want their picture taken with you in all your gear. Trust me, there is no other way a 5.7 will garner you that much fleeting fame and glory!
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Jul 14, 2008 rating: 5.7
a great route because it's the easiest way to a fun summit. an excellent place to take beginners. they will love it!
just wondering though...what is up with the unnecessary bolts?? the one on the north face route could be chopped and no one would miss it; the one on the northwest route could probably be removed as well and leaders would just have to use small cams in the horizontal down low.
Are you trolling for a good long thread Jon? Get back to work!
Maybe we should chop the first two pitches of Bachar/Yerian since a 19 year old kid did it without clipping the bolts. Check out the CO forum and you can read the article. Don't think he has said a thing about chopping bolts yet. No need to make a statement with the chisel his climbing already has!
Hitchcock Pinnacle
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