Of the new routes at left hand walll this is in the middle between Scorpion King and a "project". The first pitch begins at a grungy crack that is near vertical. The remainder of the route is slabby rock similar to the other routes on the left hand wall. The route is bolted very well and the first 20 feet of the route are very fun. Following that it is becomes less interesting. I felt the first pitch was more 5.9 than easy 5.10, but I can not comment on the second pitch as we did not climb it. I estimated the entire route to be around 180 ft. in length.
Protection
8 bolts to chain anchors- 1st pitch4 bolts to chain anchors- 2nd pitch
Has a nice interesting 5.9 start at the crack, and a couple good moves after, then gets 5.5 slab after the 4th bolt all the way to the anchors. I didn't do the second pitch. The "project" about 5 yards to the right of this appears to be complete now. It had about a 5.8+ start (thin slab moves, not crack), some sharp crimpers, then turns slabby 5.6 soon after 2nd bolt, goes to same anchors as Meteor shower. We were taking a new climber for his first time outside, and I thought these were some good climbs for that, especially with the first pitch of Scorpion King around the corner for a warm-up.
The start of this route has changed significantly. There used to be a big block right of the crack. I distinctly remember grabbing that block and climbing up onto it to clip the second bolt. That block is now sitting on the ground 10 feet from the base -- I am sure glad that didn't happen while I was standing on it! I do like the start of the route much better now.
By Andrew Ryder From: Flagstaff, AZ Mar 4, 2007 rating: 5.9+
Avoid this climb after a heavy rainstorm. We got to the base of this route shortly after the floods in summer '06 and found a wet, slimy, ant-filled crack. Yuck!
By John Hannah From: Tucson Apr 12, 2009 rating: 5.9+
This route is well protected - excellent bolt placement and some fun climbing on the first 30-40 feet. Gets much easier up top.
I climbed this today from the ground up, the second pitch is extremely fun and the roof move at 180 ft makes things interesting + the fact your belay man is out of sight to say the least. I also am one who dislikes raggin on ratings and would keep this what it was fa-ed at, and that is a .10a if you thinks its less take a stab at it as one single pitch of 180 like its supposed to be climbed.
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