BETA PHOTO: Myself on No Slack at GAC (exciting 5.7) at the Ha...
Description
This route follows the arete on the second fin-like outcropping past the main bulk of the Left Hand Wall. Getting there is much less than half the fun. Harder than it looks, this climb is exciting and committing. The difficulty is fairly consistent and involves several airy and exposed moves. Note: Despite its 5.7 rating, this climb is significantly more difficult than Limbomaniac, Unemployment Line, and Resume Builder down below. Additionally, blowing the 4th clip could lead to a spectacular crevice plunge.
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ May 9, 2006 rating: 5.7 R
Few fun moves, sort of chossy, and I thought the bolts were in bad spots, but I give it a star for sheer excitement. Great exposure on the overhanging arete and nice photo ops from up in the gully (you'll look like your 500 feet in the air and your mom will freak out). Crux is up high. Possibly the most grunting I've ever done on a 5.7.
Clipping is more scary for shorter folks. I disagree with the R-rating, this climb is not that dangerous.
In my opinion, none of the routes in this mini-canyon are worth your time.
By Mike Dudley From: Tucson Jan 19, 2009 rating: 5.8- R
The bolts off the start of this climb are in bad places IMO. The first bolt wont stop any kind of fall and the second is pretty high above it. Not that great and harder then 5.7.
Climbed this on Saturday. Harder than a 5.7 imo. Also, 3rd bolt is loose.
By Eric Ruljancich From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC Mar 14, 2009 rating: 5.7 R
Poor bolting and suspect rock. Probably doesn't deserve a full R rating, but since this a climb that a lot of beginners get on it is worth letting them know that blowing a clip would really suck.
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