Photo by Paul Crowder. Rusty Reno just off the gr...
Description
Start in corner near right end of wall, just right of a large flake at the base of the cliff. Climb thin moves 12' to lieback and difficult bulge protected by bolt. Traverse left on ledge and climb bolts up to large flake. Lieback flake for 15' and exit right to small ledge.
Easier climbing for 20 feet leads to more thin moves below two bolt anchor. Fun and pumpy!
Protection
60 meter rope is necessary to lower off! Quickdraws and extensions for anchor.
I think climb is great fun. I don't remeber having a prob with rope-drag with normal quckdraws on all the bolts. Needless to say reg quicks were fine for me both times I climbed it. I seem to remeber a large loose block between the 1st and second bolts. Not sure if that ever had potential for actually coming off but be aware and keep your belayer out of the way just in case!!
This is one of the more fun climbs for this area. It is quite a climb up to the first bolt which will keep the leader on their toes. After that it is well bolted fun climbing. As some others have mentioned, be sure to have a 60m rope or you will find yourself downclimbing a bit.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Jul 22, 2005 rating: 5.10a
nice photo..
first bolt looks run-out but there's a bomber flake to clip from..
lots of yellowjackets buzzing around in this area when it's hotter..
The 1st. clip shouldn't be a problem for a strong 5.10 climber! Have a good spotter or stick clip the 1st. bolt if this is your thing.. Fun climb with a lot of variety and worth repeating..
Start at the far right with the high first bolt. At the ledge where there are 3 bolts in a row, Big bull takes the middle one. The new 11's take the other bolts in the row. You can follow big bull by the older style boles with the screw heads rather than nuts.
Hairpin Turn (Lefthand Wall)
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