BETA PHOTO: The Hairpin area. Lefthand Wall is around the cor...
Description
Hairpin is a great place to climb in the winter. Even when its warmer, the wall is shady in the afternoon. It is very close to town and not much of an approach. There are some great routes in this area. There are also some choss-hikes. Stick to the most travelled routes and you should be able to avoid most of the bad rock. Still, use caution and wear a helmet to belay.
The east-facing part of Left Hand Wall has some decent 5.7-5.9 climbing, much of it bolted. The north-facing wall, just around the corner, has three climbs in the 5.10 range that are well worth the trip. Its also stays shady most of the day. Just be careful approaching these three climbs. A very steep grade with lots of scree makes for unpleasant scrambling.
Beware of some of the easier climbs in this area. Many of the chimneys and faces harbor tons of loose rock.
Getting There
Driving up the Catalina Highway, park at mp 0.5, just near the National Forest sign. Cross the road and follow a trail from the guard rail down towards the wash. Five minutes of hiking and scrambling down the wash trail will put you under the crag.
Left Hand Wall is just up and to the left. A trail at the cliff's base leads around the corner to the other climbs
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hairpin Turn (Lefthand Wall):
I want to second the "BE CAREFUL" that james put up on the post. I have climbed all of the climbs in this area and have been there 4x.Everytime I was there someone knocked a potentially leathal boulder down the wash!! Watch your step and be aware of climbers below you on the trail. Another word of caution. My belayer was tied to the bolt at the bottom of Triangulate while I was leading it. I would advise NOT tying in if there are parties above you who will be coming down while you are belaying. He was nearly killed by two boulders knocked down ( he couldn't move enough) the wash and I nearly got yanked off lead. SCARY!!! Watch the loose ROCKS!! Another thing...people with dogs... don't take em up the side with the .10's on it... they cause too much loose rock fall and could potentially get hurt! leave the dogs at the first wall!
Does anyone know what gear is required for the upper part of Triangulate (the route left of GAC Rulz)? Wouldn't want to drag my entire rack up there for what is probably just a few placements.
I did a while ago and had only one piece. If you brought up small medium cams #2metilius to a number one camalot you will be fine. Climbing gets a lot easier after the bolts.
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