Josh and Dave's Route 

STL II gives this a .8, but seems easier to me... There's a mental crux at the top if you don't cop out and skirt around to the left. I rarely see anyone on this one. Could be because of the challenge in getting down. You could thread the anchors on Yurt Monkey, but it's a PITA and there are often people climbing it. I left some slings and rap rings up there in a much easier position to rap from a couple of times in the past, but people have stolen them (yes, stolen A**H***...!)

I climbed this straight up the buttress and did not find any good placements above the crack. The pro I did place was purely psychological. Be prepared to run out the entire top of this route.

i agree with david - your last piece is a solid #2 cam but the rope drag is heinous. the top is run out.

Like the climbers above I ended up running out the last third of the climb. Mellow territory but a fall could be ugly. Apparently a chickenhead can be slung as protection but I missed it.