Scott Clark is pulling the crux lieback in this to...
Description
Nice, well protected natural line. Starts down and left of Wrench Warfare, about 150-175 yards uphill from Jump for Joyce. Look for a natural ramp to blocks with a fist sized crack above a ledge. Clip the bolt on the lower block to make first committing move (5.8ish), Straight up to a ledge. Crux is a lieback to the right to enter the main crack system - then up the crack to the chains -protecting as often as you want. You can scramble around the back of Krack a Tack to reach the chains if you wish to toprope.
Protection
Protects great with medium cams i.e. #3 Camalot in main crack. One bolt protects a committing move down low. 2- 1/2" Rawl 5 piece bolts with grade 43 cold shuts and grade 43 chains on top.
WARNING - In the photo you see the best way to make the crux lieback move from the ledge. The face to the left also looks promising, but the big block you stand on on that side is loose. You could give yourself and your belayer a really bad day by knocking it loose.
By Forest Hill From: Denver, CO Aug 16, 2004 rating: 5.9
This was great great fun. The one bolt is highly appropriate where it is, and the pro on the rest of the route is anywhere you want it to be. The 2nd half of the climb has 30 feet or so of rare Mt Lemmon crack, and for that I definitely give it two stars.
I disagree that the first bolt needs to be there. (Other than to suggest the route starts there) Did you notice the large (Think big cam) horizontal your stuffing your hands into as you pull the first bulge. It's a fun route
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