Go left young man! Either right there, or a few f...
Description
Easy start up broken crack system right of chimney. Climb 15 feet on good pro. Traverse left around corner toward chimney, onto easy face climbing. Climb up to one bolt protecting thinner moves near the top. Two chain anchor on top.
Protection
Bring small to medium cams, nuts, quickdraws and extensions for chain anchor.
There are three pitches. Pitch 1 - Look for one 3/8 bolt with Fixe hanger on the first pitch. Pitch 2 - Up and to the right of the chains. Climb real easy stuff to a large vertical crack (a #4 camalot works here as well as plenty of smaller stuff in a horizontal) use a 4 foot runner unless you like rope drag. Step around a big overhanging block onto the face (easy but exposed) and proceed to top of block to establish a solid gear anchor. Ptich 3 - Proceed up the face to a block with a single bolt and up to the chains. Rappel straight down from the chains to a flat area, then walk along on rappel and down to the chains at the top of the first pitch. Tie a knot in the end - a sixty meter rope just reaches if you swing the rope around so it goes straight down. Rap to the bottom along the first pitch. This is a great route for a new trad leader to learn about multipitch.
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ Feb 28, 2006 rating: 5.7
First pitch is worth it alone, but the second and third are highly recommended. I used a #2 Camalot for the airy second pitch move, which is good news if you don't own a #4! Rapping into the tree is part of the fun.
By joshf From: Tucson, AZ Nov 25, 2007 rating: 5.6
Bomber gear, a little run out between your last piece and the bolt. I agree that the first pitch is a good route for a new trad leader. The second and third pitch are very good as well.