A Mt. Lemmon trad climbing gem. Bomber gear, and an awkward crux
Location
On Up the Creek Crag A new formation 150 yards up stream from from the Control Tower. Obvious line up a black streak through a small roof on the right side of the formation.
Protection
Rack of cams to 3 inches and some small tcu's, stoppers. Chains
Cool route with great pro. An interesting crux and a great finish. It can be wet if it has just rained. The route is on the right side of the formation and climbs just left of the big roof.
By Chris Prewitt From: Tucson, AZ Dec 26, 2008 rating: 5.10b
For a great alternate start I suggest climbing the short, splitter finger crack just right of the initial corner. It makes for some awesome locks right off the bat, and since you get a good rest after the grade doesn't change. The rest of the climb is very engaging. One of the better gear routes I've done on this mountain.
I had a hell of a time with the crux on this route...never did figure it out. Would one of you guys send me your beta please? I found it pretty stout for a 10, but I'm sure I just screwed it up.