surprisingly, this may be the best route on the control tower. it looks shitty from the ground but the climbing is excellent and the gear is bomber and plentiful. there is at least one unsolicited bolt on this climb 4" from a solid #4 placement at the bottom, but of course i clipped it because i'm a pussy. the other bolt may not be necessary either; my buddy who led it after me put in two bomber pieces and skipped the bolt, but ran it out a bit.
this may not be 10a, but it's certainly harder than it was before after i broke off a handhold at the roof and whipped. though my buddy who's a strong crack climber said it's a stretch to call it even 5.9...
The moves out the roof at top of the dihedral are definitely 5.9.
I don't own a #4 camalot (If I did I might be tempted to use it) hence the 1st bolt.
I climbed this route a few weeks ago and Geir skipped the second bolt and placed gear also. When I pulled his "bomber cam" a slew of crumbly rock from inside the crack came with it.
"Don't Grab Here" is the best route on the control tower, IMO.
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