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Sweetie Don't Bite 

5.11-

   

FA: Creighton Chute, Jill Cooper, Erica Bigio, EFR,'07
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 115 feet
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Views: 142 page views

Submitted By: Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: This is the black streak as seen from about 40 fee...


Description 

This long route has some engaging sections. A 70 meter rope will reach or lower to the anchors you pass as you lead the whole thing as one pitch.


Location 

Black streak right of the big dihedral. Starts below a grassy ledge in the black streak.


Protection 

Bolt, anchors



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By Joseph Stover
Jan 27, 2008
rating: 5.11a

Its funny that toproping this seemed easier than leading Virgin's Airline, but that was the first route of the day and not my style of stuff. But both are awesome! If you do decide to toprope this be aware that there are some sharp horizontal edges up top and a pendulum might result in some nasty rope wear.

By dcohn
Jan 27, 2008

Despite Joseph's experience, this climb is probably 3 letter grades harder than Virgin's. It is similar climbing but there several very thin cruxes on this climb. One of the cool aspects of the climb is that due to the rock angle, you can basically cling to the rock until you figure out your way through the cruxes.