The crack through the 5 foot roof is the crux. It really helps to have a ton of tape or some crack gloves. The jams are painful otherwise. The left start is as tricky as the roof itself and makes the route a tad harder.
Location
This route climbs the middle of the south face of the Control Tower. It has two starts. From the rocks to the left climb past a roof with a chain at the lip, or climb overhanging jugs up broken face directly below the roof.
Did this route again with the left hand start and found the second roof to be quite challenging. I originally rated it 5.11 but it may be harder. We need someone that does this kind of thing now and then to give us a clue.
Did the right hand variation to the route. Really fun on sight. It was like four mini-routes (steep start, slab, roof, easy finish) combined together. Didn't have tape, and I would agree that it would be nice to have. Seems like the route could take gear, so if that's your thing, it would be an amazing effort to lead it that way. Will try the left hand variation next time.
Nice OS! We thought about not putting the bolt in at the roof but the gear would get in the way and I think when we did it on TR it caused a lot of drag because it pinched the cam. Besides, it is only a couple pieces of gear and the rest is bolts anyway.
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